Christmas in Amsterdam

Everyone knows the story of Santa Claus with his elves, reindeer, and his sleigh. He wears the same red suit every year, pushes himself down a chimney, and puts presents in stockings and under the tree while he eats his cookies and milk. Well, in the Netherlands, this story is a bit different.

Instead of Santa Claus, the Dutch have Sinterklaas. The holiday is celebrated on December 5th which is the Eve of Saint Nicholas. In November, Sinterklaas will arrive in Amsterdam by steamboat from Spain with his Zwarte Pieten and his grey horse. The Zwarte Pieten are the Dutch version of Santa’s elves and are translated as “Black Petes.” You can see these Black Petes playing music in the video below. I have seen them roaming around all over Amsterdam as well as with the decorations in the windows of stores.

Instead of stockings hung over the fireplace, children in Holland will place their shoes by the fireplace and Sinterklaas will fill the shoes with goodies. Sinterklaas travels from roof to roof, putting presents down the chimney just as Santa Claus does.

There are many stories explaining the origin of these Black Petes, but it is rather unclear as to exactly how they originated. These helpers have been questionably considered to be a racist concept. With the most modern, politically correct story, the Black Petes are known to be the chimney sweeps of Sinterklaas and their faces are black because of the soot. Very old origins mention that Black Pete was Sinterklaas’ servant that he set free. To show his appreciation, Black Pete stayed with Sinterklaas and helped him deliver presents to little children.

Currently in Amsterdam there are two Christmas fairs going on with ice skating rinks. These fairs serve traditional Dutch food and offer a winter wonderland for people of all ages. There are figures of Santa Claus and his reindeer put up all over the fairs. This may be to attract the many tourists that make their way to Amsterdam. Sinterklaas looks a bit different than Santa Claus. Sinterklaas looks like a mix between the American Santa Claus and a bishop. Lights have been put up all around Amsterdam too! Christmas is coming!

First Snow in Amsterdam!

It snowed yesterday for the first time since I’ve been in Amsterdam! It was so nice to wake up to flakes falling out of the sky. I had heard it was supposed to snow, but I really didn’t believe anyone. Sure enough it happened! Unfortunately it didn’t last very long and it all melted almost immediately, but it was just enough to put a smile on my face. I wonder how much snow Vermont has gotten since I’ve been away…

Vampire Weekend Live at the Heineken Music Hall

The Heineken Music Hall is located right next to Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA, the metro stop I get off at to go to my school. On the ride over I noticed there were a lot of men on the metro wearing red scarves that said “Ajax” or “Amsterdam,” things of that sort. Turns out there was a big football (soccer) game at the Ajax stadium the same time as our concert. The Ajax stadium is also located right next to this Bijlmer ArenA metro stop. These details are important for understanding the events that followed after the concert…

Vampire Weekend was absolutely amazing live. They will always be one of my favorite bands and I am exceptionally grateful that I got to see them, and in Amsterdam of all places! They always sell out in the States, and this show at the Heineken Music Hall was actually their last show in Europe for a while. Looks like we will be seeing a new Vampire Weekend album in our future!

Jenny and Johnny opened for Vampire Weekend. This band was really great too. The hall itself was absolutely massive. It is nights like these that I wish I were Dutch. Dutch men are just so darn tall that I couldn’t see a thing while Jenny and Johnny were on. We decided it would be best to go up in back to where the seats are. Even though we were far away and Vampire Weekend looked like ants, it was much more pleasant to sit back there and see the whole show than to be craning my neck and struggling to see.

It was a great show. I forgot how much I love Vampire Weekend and live music in general. This is one thing I will miss greatly when I retreat back to the woods and stop experiencing the fast-paced, Amsterdam city life.

What are the chances that our concert got out at the same time as the football game at Ajax? Flocks of people all rushed for the metro station at Bijlmer. I’ve never seen so many people at that metro stop, most of which were men. Nobody seemed to have a happy face on, it was obvious that Madrid won the game.

Packed in like sardines, we finally get on the metro. It was freezing outside and I couldn’t wait to get back and get some warm food! A couple stops after getting on, the metro stops dead. I felt like I was in the “Subway” episode of Seinfeld. We wait for ages before someone tells us that the door got kicked in at the next stop over and the metro wasn’t able to move. I thought we were never going to get back and there were tons of unhappy footballers thinking the same. After a long wait, the metro finally started back up again and we managed to get home, but what an awful time for it to stop running. There were hundreds of people crammed into those trains. Quite the eventful night!

Missed Flight and a Detour to Germany

I thought yesterday would never end.

I woke up at 6 AM yesterday in order to catch a train out of Lugano, Switzerland at 6:30 AM. My flight from Milan to Eindhoven was supposed to depart at 10:10 AM. Unfortunately, I overlooked some very important details whilst planning my journey.

First, I didn’t expect to have to change trains twice on the way over to Milano Centrale. Changing trains wasn’t the issue, but the layovers set me back about 40 minutes. I truly had no idea what I was doing or what train I was supposed to be on, so I asked several people and went with my gut feeling. Luckily, I took the right route and ended up at the Milan central train station where I needed to catch my bus.

If I had arrived at the train station a single minute earlier, I probably could have made my flight. Just as I walked outside to where the buses meet, the one to Milan Bergamo airport was pulling away. This was at 8:30 AM. Buses to the airport left every half-hour and I would have to wait until 9 AM to catch the next one.

I sat on the bus, waiting for it to pull away. I was annoyed, yet calm because there was simply nothing I could do about the situation. It was out of my control at this point. I just had to sit there and wait.

The bus arrived at the Milano Bergamo airport at 9:50 AM. I mindlessly overlooked the smaller print on my plane ticket that said “Gate Closes at 9:40 AM.” I walked up to the RyanAir counter and sheepishly asked if I could still make my flight. I was denied. My flight was on its “last call” for all passengers. I totally could have made it if the lady at the desk would have allowed me to check in.

Once realization set in, I felt totally lost. I was totally alone. I had no idea what to do. I had never missed a flight before! All I wanted to do was call my mom and ask for advice, but I couldn’t. It was time to grow up and fix this mistake on my own.

The next flight to Eindhoven wasn’t until the next day at 3:30 PM. That was a whole 30 hours away. There was no way I was going to attempt to navigate Milan all alone and spend tons of money on a hotel room. Milan was just not my scene. I did not feel remotely at home there. I actually felt quite scared in the parts of Milan I’d been to. The stations were cold, confusing, and creepy and the people were just the same.

After contemplating what I should do, I was told by the window attendant at the RyanAir booth that I could get a flight to Dusseldorf, Germany. Apparently that is a common destination for people who miss their flights to Eindhoven. I had to surrender 100 euros and decided to grab the 2:30 PM flight to Dusseldorf in order to arrive in Amsterdam within the same day.

If I hadn’t missed my flight, I never would have met these two wonderful Dutch ladies in the Dusseldorf airport. When you’re in a garbage dump of a situation, I can assure you that some good will always come out of it. You just need to stay positive, keep your eyes open, and see the opportunities.

I’d guess that these two ladies were somewhere in their 60s. One was very short and couldn’t touch the ground as she sat in the chair in the airport. They were both very cute and seemingly good friends. I heard them speaking Dutch to someone and they mentioned Eindhoven. I decided to speak up and ask where they were going.

They were headed to Eindhoven but something happened with the shuttle or their flight and the process was delayed. They had been waiting in those airport seats for ages. I told them that I needed to go to Amsterdam, so they decided to take me under their wings and show me the way.

While waiting in the airport for the shuttle to arrive, the two ladies got up and wandered over to a little kid ride in the corner of the airport. This is one of those rides you see outside a large grocery store or in a mall that has little cars and airplanes that rock back and forth. I wondered about these two 60 year old women observing the Sesame Street ride. They seemed to be looking for the slot to put change into. Surely they couldn’t be trying to ride on that thing…

The short little woman with grey hair put her money into the slot and hopped on the little blue car. She was rocking back and forth and laughing, having the time of her life as her friend watched and laughed too. I couldn’t help but laugh out loud as I watched too. It was completely unexpected, yet very refreshing.

These women reminded me that I need not take life so seriously. I used to know this, then somewhere along the line I forgot. Pablo Picasso once said, “Youth has no age.” This couldn’t be more true. These women were traveling long hours, just as I was, and yet they continued to have high energy and a positive attitude.

The shuttle to Eindhoven eventually arrived and due to whatever mistake the airport made, I didn’t need to pay a cent. The ride was about two hours long and I was never happier to sit on a bus, listen to my iPod, and look out the window.

These women also made me realize that I really like being alone, but I don’t like feeling alone. When I missed my flight in Milan, I had no one to help me out; nowhere and no one to turn to. I was in an unfamiliar foreign country where those who did speak English spoke it very brokenly. I felt alone. As soon as I reached the Netherlands, I felt safe and at home. I knew what I was doing and I felt comfortable again.

These two women took me under their wings and were very sweet in escorting me to the correct train once I reached Eindhoven. I knew exactly which train I needed to take, but I didn’t stop them when they pointed me in the right direction. It felt good to have a mentor again, someone else to do the planning for once.

I sat by the window of the train to Amsterdam and as it pulled away the two Dutch ladies waved goodbye to me. I waved goodbye back and an endless smile was suddenly stuck to my face. Though I never even learned the names of these women, they felt like family. We endured 4 hours of waiting and traveling together and attained an unspoken connection because of it.

It was an expensive and inconvenient mistake, but missing my flight wasn’t all that bad. After 16 hours of waiting around and traveling, I arrived to my apartment in Amsterdam with a smile on my face.

Carnival in Dam Square


Though Halloween was a total bust, we managed to find a haunted carnival ride in the middle of Dam Square. This well made up for the lack of costumes we had seen throughout the day. The carnival was really nice and offered Dutch carnival food, which consisted mainly of waffles and poffertjes (little Dutch pancakes). The video below is quite hilarious, please feel free to poke as much fun as you wish. I completely deserve it.